Friday, October 17, 2014

Autumn glory

(Mirror reflections on the Kunjamuk)

I have been nearly in a swoon for the past month over the gorgeous fall foliage this year.  Granted, I always think the trees are beautiful, despite what people say about this or that year being not as nice as another, but this year is stupendous.  I hope you have been able to get out to see the display!



While Bill attended a conference in Orlando, I spent a few days in late September and early October on day outings in the Adirondacks with friends. Karen took me to Speculator to kayak the Kunjamuk River. I almost never carry my camera in my boat, for fear of getting it wet, but I'm sure glad I did this time.  I was in complete awe at every bend of the river. 




(Karen is dwarfed by a brilliant overhanging maple)


Can you see Karen under the arch of this gorgeous maple?   Despite floating aimlessly at times to view the scenery and take pictures, we covered quite a few miles.  We had hoped to get to Elm Lake, but ten beaver dams used up a lot of our time and energy. We were able to stay in our boats and push ourselves through four of them, but we had to get out and climb over six dams hauling our boats behind us.  Apparently, the beaver population is booming in the Adirondack wilderness!




(Buttermilk Falls in Long Lake)


On October first, I took my elderly parents for, what I called, My Grand Boyle Adirondack Fall Foliage Tour. I knew they would love riding through the Adirondacks to places they used to visit.  We stopped at Sarah's Cafe in North Creek for coffee and a bun, visited friends in Indian Lake, walked the short distance into Buttermilk Falls in Long Lake, had lunch at the Adirondack Hotel with a view of the water after walking the causeway in Long Lake Village, came back along Indian Lake, and returned to their Saratoga home by way of the Lake Desolation Road.




(one of our favorite campsites at Indian Lake turns golden)


The gray macadam of route 30 literally felt like a thin line parting two walls of red, orange, and yellow, highlighted by dark spruce green.  My mother, father, and I were a tree-crazy trio.  We could barely hold a conversation, because every sentence was punctuated with "did you see that red tree over there?" and "it is sooo gorgeous!"  We decided that, if one of us missed a sight on one side of the road, there was always an equally glorious sight on the other.  Our heads swiveled.





(fallen leaves on a campground path at Indian Lake)


One time, a number of years ago, Bill and I were in Colorado, visiting the high-elevation town of Nederland.  A snow storm of a few days prior melted quickly in the strong sun.  The woman in the visitor's center told me how Colorado's brilliant blue sky always came out after a storm, unlike in the east where gray clouds might hover for days.  Then she said, "You should come here in the fall.  The aspen is beautiful."  I said, "I'm sure it's really pretty," and then added, with a smile, "but I come from the Northeast."  Need anyone say more? You wouldn't catch me leaving this area in late September and into October! 





(Lake Desolation)


My friend, Linda, said that she would like to go to Merck Forest.  Merck Forest is dedicated to teaching sustainable agriculture and forestry.  At 3100 acres, it also has lots of hiking trails.  "My foot is a little sore," Linda said, "so maybe we won't hike Mount Antone this time."  That was fine.  Merck Forest has great variety, all appealing.



(Merck Forest, Rupert, Vermont)

We drove through bucolic Washington County in peak foliage and into Vermont, entering Merck Forest's  maple-lined driveway.  Yellow and red leaves glittered in the bright sunshine, but when we got out of the car and began to walk towards the farm, blasts of chilly wind hit us in the face.  "I need to warm up," Linda said. "Let's hike the mountain," and we set off at a brisk pace.

When we reached the summit and saw miles of rolling hills and mountains below in dappled shades of color, we were glad we hadn't missed this. I have been visiting Merck Forest since childhood, and don't remember ever seeing as far as we could on this day with its clear cold atmosphere.  In addition, we were plenty warm, and Linda said that her foot held up fine. 




(view from the summit of Mount Antone at Merck Forest)


My Tuesday trips of 35 miles, to see my parents, give me a chance to watch the progress of fall color as it spread throughout the Capital Region.  Huge swaths of trees along the Northway glowed in red and gold by the 10th of October. Peak foliage was now close to home.

Sunday's forecast was for a high of 60 degrees and sunny. Bill was ready for a fall outing. We debated where we should get doughnuts.  Should we head east and try the new Cider Belly shop, highly advertised, in downtown Albany, and then continue on to Grafton for a walk around the lake?  Or go southwest, stopping at Indian Ladder Farms for doughnuts and hike a few trails at Thacher Park?  Despite all the good press, I was skeptical of Cider Belly and figured Indian Ladder was a sure bet for good cider doughnuts.  We decided to go southwest.




(Albany County from High Point at Thacher Park)


Indian Ladder Farms has the best cider doughnuts in the area (barring my home made ones!).  Half of the Capital District appeared to agree; the place was mobbed.  We wove our way through the crowd. However, the farm's well-orchestrated and friendly staff made the process of getting doughnuts and cider easy.  Outside, we found a picnic table and had no trouble demolishing our purchase!

Fortified for a walk, we drove up to Thacher Park.  Lots of families were here too, but the park has plenty of room for everyone, and, anyway, I like to see people enjoying the outdoors on a beautiful day.  We continued through the main park area to Thacher North.  Only a couple of cars were in the parking lot.  Scuffling in the leaves and smelling the fall aromas, we hiked the Fred Schroeder Trail to High Point Cliff, making a pleasant three-mile loop.

Again the atmosphere was crystal clear, the view gorgeous, and the colors a mix of bright oranges, yellows and reds with dark green for contrast.  




(Bill walks through a path of gold at Thacher North)

With peak color blazing in the Capital Region, Karen suggested that we take a final paddle for the season and go to nearby Kayaderosseras Creek. We called long time outings leader and friend, Charlie, to guide us, help us spot cars, and to add his pleasant company to our trip.  Charlie had been on the Kayaderosseras in all seasons over many years, and was familiar with every part of the calm gently-flowing creek. Besides the Kayaderosseras itself, we added a side trip to Lake Lonely, and eventually paddled into the exciting swells of Saratoga Lake, ending at the entrance to Fish Creek where one of the cars was parked.

As we parted to drive home, Karen and Charlie were already brainstorming adventures for next year.  It is never too soon to think ahead!


(Virginia paddling on the stream leading to Lake Lonely)

Now, in mid-October, I can see oranges and reds from my back porch, and throughout my neighborhood.  Fall foliage is going by in the north country, but I am stunned by the brilliant color right here at home. I'm still saying "Look at the tree over there!  Isn't it gorgeous?"  My head will be swiveling for another week or so, and I'll continue talking about this year's beautiful fall for a couple of weeks after that.

One of these days, I'll go for a neighborhood walk and pick up some leaves to iron between waxed paper.  The pressed leaves will hang in the kitchen window well into November as a reminder of October's glory. After that, I'll be ready to move into the next season, as winter brings a new beauty.



(it's a beautiful day in the neighborhood)

Friday, September 12, 2014

Environmental Activism

Who would have guessed that one event, for which I have been working an entire calendar year, and another, that came about in the last couple of months, both of which are really important to me, would fall on the same day?

First, I'll tell you about the one you can be part of.  On Sunday, September 21, many environmental organizations are coming together for a People's Climate March in New York City.  Some of you know that I am very involved with the Sierra Club.  In addition to the usual 30 emails I get a day as a member of our local Sierra Club Executive Committee, and as a member of the statewide Energy Committee, I have tried to do my part in encouraging people to attend the March. Many Sierrans are making phone calls, organizing buses, and tabling, for this effort.


The timing of the People's Climate March is immediately in advance of the UN Climate Summit where leaders will lay the groundwork for a Climate Treaty.  After my experience at the march against the Keystone Pipeline in 2013 in Washington, DC, I would like to be in New York on the 21st and help take a stand for the environment and the most important issues facing the world today. If you can go or would just like more information, go to www.peoplesclimate.org    Being part of this march will be an amazing experience!


I have been working on the Adirondack Mountain Club Fall Outing sponsored by our Albany Chapter for a year, as one member of a five-person committee. I have committed to being at this event.  Hey, even my award winning photo of Lake Durant is featured on the registration page!





People often think of ADK as a "hiking club."  In fact, 70% of members join because they believe in the conservation efforts of the club.  The issues ADK tackles are more local and are easier to understand than the complex world-wide issues of the Sierra Club.  Both are worthy environmental groups.

The Fall Outing, however, will be fun.  It is three days of outings in the Keene area, including a spaghetti dinner at the firehouse and a musical event.  My part in the planning has been to communicate and help organize the 52 hikes and paddle outings for the three days.  I enjoy emailing with the leaders and working with the other members of the event committee, even though it has required many hours of communication and cooperation over the past year. If I could be in two places at once, I would surely attend both the People's Climate March and the ADK Fall Outing.

If you are able to attend the People's Climate March in Manhattan, I hope you will do so.  It will be a momentous event, and will show our world leaders how much we are concerned about the huge environmental issues we all face today.




Saturday, August 16, 2014

Biking Santanoni

(Karen and Janet rode up the carriage road )
Some of you will remember my post from this past winter entitled, "Santanoni Ski."  In subzero temperatures with deep fluffy snow, a group of us skied into the Santanoni Great Camp, a National Historic Landmark in Newcomb, once owned by the Pruyn family.  Ever since then, my friend, Karen, had been determined to ride our bikes in.  A couple of people we knew had done it, and visiting the Great Camp in the summer would offer a different interest and beauty from winter.
(Summer air comes through the main lodge's windows; a big change from when we were here before!)
On a cool damp July day, our mutual friend, Janet, joined Karen and me for the outing.  A five-mile ride on a bike is not a big challenge, but patches of soft dirt, that could make us spin out on our hybrid bikes, forced us to be extra cautious. Still, the old carriage road was a comfortable ride on a gradual uphill through a rich green forest.

At the farm site, we could see the remains of the big barn, burned down a decade ago. This farm produced large quantities of produce, despite farming in the Adirondacks being notoriously difficult. Today the fields are mostly forested, but we could still discern boulders poking through the shallow grass, and stones throughout the landscape. While I love the deep woods that have reclaimed the land, I wondered what it had been like to see across open farm fields to myriad majestic Adirondack peaks. 

(Beautiful woodwork was made from trees on the property)
In just about an hour, we arrived at the camp. Only the great room had been open for us to view in winter; now we had access to every room in every building. As Great Camps go, this one is rustic, a place to enjoy nature and summer sports. The Pruyns of the late 19th century and early 20th century came here to have fun with a few select friends and family, away from work in Albany.

(Hailey restores and  reglazes windows)















Besides the summer openness of the grounds, Santanoni advertises tours.  In fact, Hailey, an intern majoring in historic preservation, did not give us a tour, but talked to us on the porch, telling us the history of the property, and encouraged us to take a self-guided tour through the buildings.

With rain in the forecast, and the sky a heavy gray, we decided to save perusing the buildings for later, and, instead, chose to go out for a boat ride before the rain set in.  Just downhill from the lodge, the boat house, where the Pruyn family had kept canoes, guideboats, and rowboats for their own use on Newcomb Lake, sits on the water's edge. The public is encouraged to use the boats currently stored there and explore the lake, its islands and coves, and to view the Great Camp from the water.

(Karen paddled on Newcomb Lake using a kayak from the boat house)
Janet, Karen and I were excited to find three canoes and a kayak in the boat house.  Without deliberation, we decided that Karen should have the kayak, and Janet and I would take a canoe.  Then we looked closer.  One canoe had a sign on it that read "this boat leaks."  We eliminated that one. Of the remaining two canoes, one was very large, so we chose the other as less cumbersome.

Karen was already in the water. Janet and I carried our canoe down the ramp. Next, she climbed into the bow and sat down.  From behind her, I could see the metal seat sag and the sides of the boat draw in.  "Janet!" I called out.  "Aluminum shouldn't do that! What if the sides crack while we're out on the lake?"  Janet and I carried the canoe back into the boathouse.  All that was left was the big canoe.  We couldn't lift this one, so we dragged it to the water.  It was definitely sea-worthy. 



(we were drawn to the lake on the other side of the bridge)




While the equipment proved to be a bit sketchy, paddling on this remote lake was a dream.  We headed towards the bridge that we had just ridden our bikes over.  Earlier, we had heard the call of a loon from the far side.  Hoping to see the loon now, we went under the bridge and into the open water beyond. Leafy shrubs between gray rocks dipped into the water along a shoreline devoid of sign of man...or any sign of the loon.

We could have gone a long distance on this small lake, but, afraid that a storm might come up quickly, we decided to turn around.  Suddenly, the rhythmic sound of flapping wings made us look up. Just above, large and black, our loon went over our heads towards the other section of the lake!






(Janet enjoyed her solid seat in this canoe)

Paddling back under the bridge and closer to the camp, we were within a stone's throw of the boathouse if the weather changed.  We reveled in the peace and quiet as we meandered through this calm water, but we knew there was a time when conversation and laughter, combined with outdoor activity, made this a more active scene.




(the main lodge of Santanoni Great Camp is tucked into the woods)

For the Pruyns, amusement was the order of the day--plays, story telling, poetry writing, music, games, and outdoor sports filled the time they spent here. Bedrooms were not luxurious, with the idea that guests should get up and outdoors, not languish indoors on comfy mattresses. The lodge's wrap-around porch drew people out of the buildings.

(the artist's cottage would be a perfect cottage for me!)


Fishing, swimming, boating, hiking, or picnicking on an island in the lake, could all be done on a moment's notice. An artistic Pruyn son had his own artist studio, and a daughter enjoyed her nearby gazebo. Part way around the lake a small building housed towels for swimming, and changing rooms, at a time when modesty demanded that swimmers be on the fringe of visibility.






The sky grew darker and a few sprinkles fell...and then we saw the loon, a final touch of wildness on this lake within the mountains.  We paddled close to him and he slipped beneath the water, turning up a little farther away on our other side.  He seemed relaxed, looking around, and then stretched up, preening.  We were enthralled.  After a while he dove down and reappeared farther away.  By now, the rain came down harder and we paddled back toward shore, past the artist's cottage, past the great lodge, and into the boat house.




We were grateful for the big porch where we could sit at a picnic table with our lunch and look through scrap books and photo albums portraying the Great Camp's heyday. The photos showed women walking on logs like balance beams, men writing rhymes describing an evening's antics, children using child-sized canoes or making collections of moss and stones they had found in the woods.

Even the staff had more leisure time when they came north.  With functional decor, cleaning required less effort and upkeep than in the Pruyn's formal home. Seasonal meals with the day's catch, and fresh produce from the farm, made cooking simpler too. Just the same, while the whole lodge might only have 15 people staying at one time, 70 staff members were needed to run the place.


(the wide porch surrounds the lodge and sheltered us from the rain)

A family joined us on the porch at another table.  They had just arrived on their bikes.   After perusing the albums, we took a careful look inside all of the buildings, and we chatted with Hailey. Our decision to paddle on the lake first had worked out perfectly.

Before long, the rain turned to drizzle, and we decided to walk the path to the artist's cottage.  Inside, we saw the massive stone fireplace and the view of the lake out the large front window.  We didn't stay long, because it appeared that this building was currently being used as the interns' residence.  We imagined what it must be like to wake up amidst the wild splendor of Newcomb Lake and the shrill call of the loons.

Walking farther along the path, we came to a little sand bar and took off our shoes. Although the air was cool, the water felt warm.  Surely the Pruyns and their friends had waded here. 


(Ladies having fun in a line dance)

In the spirit of the fun-loving women visiting the Great Camp a hundred years ago, Karen and Janet kicked up their heels on the lake shore in the drizzle. Salut!




(Ladies having fun in a line dance--just like those in the other photo, right?)

Hours had passed since we left our bikes under a back porch roof at the main lodge.  In a light drizzle, we began the return ride along the dirt carriage road. Although we remembered that we had ridden on a gradual ascent on the way in, the speed of our descent took us by surprise. We pulled on our brakes the whole way, conscious that we might skid out more easily in the soft spots on the down grades.

Janet flew!  A very athletic and strong woman, Janet appeared fearless.  At a more level spot, she waited for Karen and me.  With near panic in her voice, her words tumbled out, "My brakes are hardly working!  I don't want to go so fast!"   At the farm area, we stopped again. The descent had leveled and Janet had more control. The rain had stopped, so we relaxed a moment before the last half-mile to our cars.






(the gatehouse made an elegant statement to guests entering the Santanoni Great Camp)















Near the parking lot, the property's gatehouse, with upstairs residence for the gate keeper of long ago, is impressive.  We entered a small gift shop that sold maps, books, and other items on trust.  I bought a booklet about the family and the property, leaving money in the cash box.

We were drawn to the creek alongside the building, which connects Lake Harris and Rich Lake, where we could see blue mountains in the distance.  Then we rode into the parking lot and loaded our bikes onto the cars.

(there is no end to beautiful scenery here)

We thought about other friends of ours who would enjoy this trip. Maybe we'll come again next year and bring them along.  We'll just be sure to check the boats carefully before we put one of them in the water!


Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Speaking French in France

A few years ago, when I decided that I should regain the ability to speak the French that I had learned in high school and college, people often asked me if I was doing this because I was going to France.  Every time, I would say, "Maybe I'll go to France someday, but re-learning French is not about that.  It's about getting back a skill I used to have, and it's about being a more well-rounded American."

(St. Emilion in the Dordogne wine region of France)



When Bill and I toured the Netherlands in 2004, I had been impressed that most Dutch people speak four or five different languages with ease. Since one of the languages is English, we had no trouble communicating, but, I thought, wouldn't it be great to be fluent in more than just a native tongue?

Those of you who read my two 2011 blog posts about re-learning French may remember that I took French I and II at the College of St. Rose.  After that, I spent two years attending a one-evening-a-month conversation group.  I missed some months, but every time I went, I came home and said to Bill, "This is so much fun!"



(Houses pile one on top of another on Mont St. Michel)


A group of six or more, we sat around a table and visited.  Any topic was fair game.  The participants ranged from people struggling with French to native speakers.  I fell somewhere in the middle.  At first I contributed to the conversation tentatively.  Then one December evening I was the only person who showed up besides the moderator.  Forced to communicate, I gained confidence, and, from then on, I spoke often at every meeting.

In March, Bill and I made our trip arrangements for a tour of France, planning to go for the last week of May and the first week of June.  Evening schedule conflicts forced me to miss my French conversation group in April and again in May.  Here I was, with a trip to France on the doorstep and rusty speaking skills!  Then, Terry, a friend who works with me in the cheese department at the Co-op, said, "I'm trying a different French group.  They meet at people's houses and chat.  They usually meet in Schenectady, but the one this week is in Albany."




(The Van Gogh cafe in Arles looks just like Van Gogh's painting of it)


I needed to go.  I drove to the home of MaryAnn, a woman who had been born and raised in France.  A few people were already there when I arrived.  Others streamed in, carrying wine, baguettes, cheese, and fruit.  I looked at Terry, and said, "I didn't know we should bring anything."  He said, "Don't worry about it.  I brought cheese.  It will be from both of us."


(Walking on the castle wall allowed me to take this picture at Carcassonne)




All around me, I could hear French conversations, as people went to the kitchen for a glass of wine and to the diningroom table for snacks.  I joined in one conversation after another.  When I got tired of the topic in one group, I moved elsewhere.  The people were welcoming and friendly.  They wondered how I had learned about the group, made sure I got on the email list for the next meeting, asked me if I had ever been to France, and were excited that I would be going soon.



(Chateau Chenenceau in the Loire Valley)

I couldn't eat or drink--speaking French on all different topics was enough for me to keep track of.  I took a couple of cubes of fruit to hold on a plate, just to make a good appearance, and felt transported into a French cocktail party, mingling, chatting, making new acquaintances.  After an hour and a half, I was exhausted.  I thanked MaryAnn and went to the door to leave.  In lovely French, she called out to me, "It has been my pleasure to have made your acquaintance."  How nice, I thought, and memorized the phrase.  I felt ready to take on France.

When we arrived at our hotel in Paris with a few hours on our own, I knew that I could ask in English where the nearby park, Bois de Boulogne, was, but I thought, hey, I might as well try my French now as later.  I asked the receptionist for directions and she brought out a map to show me.  My words sounded halting, but I got the answer I needed.  The next day, I spoke to a vintner where we had a tour of a wine cellar, asking him if it were okay to take pictures. Although my grammar was still awkward, he answered me nicely in French.


(A Medieval street in  Beaune)

From then on, I was off and running, and I had a blast!  I asked directions to a beach near the Riviera, spoke to vendors about their wares at a Farmer's Market, talked about the weather in a shop in Provence, ordered food in sidewalk take-away shops, read signs and translated them for Bill. Every day, I made opportunities to speak French.
 

(Virginia wading in the Mediterranean)














Once in a while I got bogged down, such as when I wanted to buy a tablecloth and had difficulty converting centimeters to inches.  I finally spoke to the vendor in English, but I bought placemats instead.  Twice people told me that I spoke very well.  I wondered about that.  Maybe I didn't speak all that well, but I knew they said this to encourage me and to let me know that they appreciated my efforts.



(Every city has a carousel on the square, Avignon)

One evening we went to a very old farm for dinner.  Everything had been made or grown on the property--the wine, red and rose, the chicken and vegetables. Our hosts even caught the fish in their stream.  Homemade bread and butter, and a salad with their own goat cheese began the dinner and a rhubarb crisp ended it.  Besides the wonderful fresh food, the farm had a continuously working mill from the year 1036.
 
At dinner, when the hostess came around, I told her that the food was delicious--my lead-in to my next French chat.  I asked her if the house, like the mill, was very old.  She took right off!  In a volley of words, she told me that the church was that age, and the surrounding farms, so, judging from that and the age of the huge stone fireplace, yes, the house was probably also from about 1036.  Whew! With intensity, I tried to grab every word.  I didn't catch them all, but I got the gist of what she was saying, and I nodded, murmuring impressed responses, finally ending by saying that her story was absolutely fascinating, which it was.



(The mill from 1036)


As the days passed, I also learned some technique and protocol. First, the French think Americans are very rude when they do not say "hello," before asking for something.  This made me realize how often we go up to a desk and say, generally in a nice tone of voice, "Do you know where...?" or "Can you help me find...."  I made a point to remember to say, "Bonjour" first.

One time, I was frustrated, trying to use my international phone card to call my parents.  I had been concerned about being far away from them for two weeks.  I walked to the desk and said, in French, "I'm having trouble using the phone."  I had forgotten to say "hello" before my question.  The receptionist answered me in English....


(Virginia and Bill have a sandwich at the beach, St. Jean de Luz)


And I learned how to end phrases like the French do, with a little tag on the ends of words, making a softer ending.  Better yet, I became comfortable using the breathy French "r."  It helped that our bus driver did not speak English and that his name was Eric.  Every day, we got on the bus, saying "Bonjour, Eric."  By the end of the trip, I could say the "r" in his name almost as well as our tour director did.

Eventually, we had to return to Charles de Gaulle airport.  That's it, I thought, I'm done speaking French in France.  It had been so much fun, and I probably would never do it again.  I felt sad about the end of the tour and the end of my language experience.  We stood in a long line for security.  Around me, people spoke in many tongues, but the dominant one I heard was American English.



(The high Pyrenees at Lourdes)


With my carry-on open for inspection, I waited for the security guard to ask me the usual questions.  I was shocked when he threw out a slew of them in French.  At first, I wondered if I should respond in English.  Surely, he knew I was American, and security processing was serious.  Should I play around with words now?  Then I thought, it's my last chance!  I said the appropriate "no" and "oui" to "Has anyone else had your bag besides you?  Do you have a laptop? or a Kindle?"  It wasn't a creative conversation, but we communicated satisfactorily...and he let me on the plane.

By the time we had been home over a month, I had not spoken a word of French.  I'm sure I've lost my "r", I thought, and those nice phrase-endings that I had learned felt long ago.  Neither of my French groups met in the summer. I began to think that these past few years of trying to re-learn French actually had been about going to France.  I had been kidding myself with all that esoteric nonsense about widening my American English perspective.


(Farmer's Market at Libourne)

Then an email arrived from a woman in the wine-and-cheese party group.  In French, she wrote, "We don't meet in the summer, but I'm around.  If anyone is free, come to my house Friday evening."  I went, and so did about 15 other people. This time, I brought a fruit plate--I knew the drill now.  As before, the others welcomed me and a few remembered me.

Most of the attendees were native speakers or teachers of French, yet no one was impatient with me, and I was not the only participant with mediocre skill.  Best of all, I remembered  the "r" and the phrase endings. 


(Golden-colored stone in Old Nice)


After two hours, I could hardly think anymore; I was so exhausted from trying to understand and to speak, but it had been a great evening. When I got home, I wrote down the new words that I had learned.  I would need to keep progressing if I were going to go to this group now and then.  And, as far as talking French in France, well, most of all it had been a lot of fun. And now, back home, maybe someday, I will have a soiree at my house!



(The Eiffel Tower is 125 years old this year, Paris)






Monday, June 30, 2014

In the June Gardens

(some of the plantings look like they just happened to grow with one another, but Monet planned every combination of color and texture.)

On the next to last day of our two-week tour of France, Bill and I visited impressionist painter, Claude Monet's, famous gardens at Giverny.  I knew going to Giverny would be a highlight of our trip.  Rain held off and gray skies did not diminish the brilliant colors of Monet's "Clos Normand" garden near the house.  A Clos Normand garden is a cottage garden in Normandy enclosed by hedges and fences.  I was in heaven, taking pictures and sniffing roses, as I walked on the paths.




(From a bedroom window, I could see across the entire garden.  Beyond the trees is the pond and water garden.)


Like a living impressionist painting, these gardens were a sea of mixed colors and flower varieties. Rose standards and trellises bloomed in every shade, with seemingly disorganized perennials beneath. Arbors arched over the path and in front of the house. When we went in the house and looked out the open upstairs bedroom windows, we looked right onto the top of the arbors. What would it be like to get up in the morning and open the windows to a sea of roses at eye level?


(Monet spent years choosing colors for the house itself, which he first rented, and then owned.)


When I got home and had books from the library, I learned that, in fact, the gardens were very organized in color combinations that Monet took from his palette. When one section bloomed as he had planned, he would go out with his easel and paint it.  After that, he would no longer be interested in that part of the garden, waiting for the next combination of colors and textures to bloom.  His love of gardening and devotion to painting were completely intertwined. 





(Monet painted his pond view, with the arched Japanese bridge, over and over.  Eventually, he decided to concentrate just on the lilies, the water, and the reflections, with no other flowers or structures in the painting.)

Ten years after creating the Clos Normand garden, Monet was able to buy land across the railroad tracks, received a permit from the village, and created a pond from a tributary of the nearby Epte River. We felt instantly transported into the water-lilies paintings. Huge willows hung in the foreground, and big-leaved plants grew alongside flowers of all kinds. A couple of men stood in Monet's boat maintaining the water garden amidst the lilies. From the arching Japanese-style bridge, we could look over the curves of the ponds and the surrounding trees and flowers.



(Monet set up his easel in this spot to capture the pond framed by the willows.  Every day his gardeners still prune the lily pads to keep some of the water open for reflections)

Every part of the garden is a framed picture either by hanging willow branches, arched roses, or bridges. I was surprised that there were five bridges; I expected just the one that is featured so often in the paintings. I was also surprised that the pond was smaller than I had imagined, creating an inviting intimacy.

 

(I am dwarfed by the plants at Monet's water garden.  He loved all the green shapes and textures amidst the flowers.)

Monet planted the water-lilies on a whim.  He said, "It took me a long time to understand my waterlilies...and then, all of a sudden I had the revelation of the enchantment of my pond.  I took up my palette.  Since then I've had no other motif."  Monet's water-lilies' paintings abound.  Fortunately for us, they are in many museums.  I remember being awe-struck by how huge the one is in the Museum of Modern Art in New York.  Now, I have learned how his style evolved from year-to-year, and that he had to build a larger studio to accommodate the ever-increasing size of the water-lilies pictures.




(I was pleased to still be able to enjoy the iris bed at my house when we returned from our trip to France.)

But, returning to Albany after being away for two weeks, I discovered that my own garden was a jungle.  Weeds grew as tall as the iris.  The good thing was that the spring flowers were still in bloom.  I had thought I would miss them.  I spent an hour or two each evening taming my garden.  Still, evenings were long and cool.  It was nice to be outdoors bringing a temporary order, as I thought about Monet's mingling of life and art.



(The pond is the central feature at Innisfree Garden in Millbrook, NY.)

Towards the end of June, my friend, Rosemary, visited from Wisconsin.  She is an avid gardener, so I enjoy taking her to unusual places when she makes an annual visit.  My long-time blog readers will remember Innisfree Garden from a post I wrote last year ( http://nooksandvales.blogspot.com/2013/09/innisfree-garden.html  ).  Every time I go, I take someone new, and Rosemary was the perfect companion.  She had read about Innisfree in detail and knew its history, its design featuring native and Asian elements, and about its struggle to stay afloat in difficult financial times.




(I love little stone stairways, nearly covered with flowers, such as this one at Innisfree Garden.)

We walked from one vignette or "cup garden," to the next, up and down stairways and on garden paths.  At one point we sat on a bench and talked about the gardens, but also about our families and our lives.  Bringing Rosemary to a peaceful, quiet place of beauty, gave us a relaxed environment in which to catch up.  And, or course, I had brought a picnic, which we ate, while sitting in Adirondack chairs overlooking the pond. 

Finally, the month of June waned, but a major highlight for me awaited.  For my birthday last Thanksgiving, Bill had said that he would give me a ticket to visit children's illustrator Tasha Tudor's house and garden in Marlboro, Vermont.  Although no longer living, Tasha Tudor was famous for her gardens, as well as for the 100+ books she illustrated.  Her gardens became well-known in the early 1990s, when they were featured in books and magazine articles.

These days, the family allows 15 people to tour the house and garden on just 8 mornings between May and October. In January, the tickets go on sale online and are gone within a half hour.  One January evening, when I was at orchestra, Bill was one of the first buyers and got me a ticket for June 28, my first choice.


(Tasha's house is in this weathered Cape Cod style, but this is actually The Rookery, the offices of the business, Tasha Tudor and Family.)

We were not allowed to bring cameras on the tour, so I can only tell you about the beauty that I saw.

Clearly, we had lucked out with this day, a summer morning with a cloudless sky, and temperatures about 70 degrees. Our late spring meant that peonies, bleeding hearts, and wiegela were still blooming at the same time as summer roses and clematis, making an amazing show. The rock walls in front of the house, so visible in the 1990s books were now invisible behind cascading wild roses and terraces of cultivated roses, foxglove, and delphinium. Only mown grassy paths separated the gardens, and little stone stairways hidden amidst the blossoms led from one level to another.

I realized how efficient the property was. The flower gardens were just steps away from the door of the house, and immediately beyond lay the vegetable and herb gardens, the bay tree in its place of honor amidst a brick labyrinth, and half a dozen apple trees. Even the pond was only feet from the vegetable garden. We saw the “fairy ring” bordered by peonies, Tasha's favorite white pine in the azalea garden, the ferns in her secret garden, and on and on.

The other participants and I commented on the work of maintaining a garden like this, but Winslow, Tasha's grandson, said they only weed once, when the plants start really growing in the spring. After that the gardens are so lush, that they only pull up a weed now and then. He said, “Granny knew what to plant that would work in each place without having to be maintained all the time.” In the fall, Tasha, and now the family, cut down all the plants for the winter, and laid two-year-old goat manure on the gardens, and mulch on top of that.



(What are my chances of success in growing a whole bush from this?)
















Winslow gave us each a cutting from a wild rose bush to take home and root. Petals began to fall while I was still in the car.  I was pretty skeptical that I could make a bush for my garden from this, but I have given it my best effort and good vibes. In my first hour at home, I went to Home Depot for growth hormones, found the proper mix of soil and sand in my garage, and planted the stem, first clipping off all the flowers, watered it, and enclosed the pot and cutting in a plastic bag, just the way I had read that I should do.  Now two days later, the leaves haven't died or fallen off, so I'm off to a good start...but, just in case this rooting experiment doesn't work out, I have pressed some of the flowers under a heavy garden book.



(Monet would have wanted to add a splash of deep blue to this over-abundance of pink, but both he and Tasha would enjoy the sprawl of those poppy mallows that want to take over the grass)


In the meantime, my own garden moved along with the month of June.  A long time ago, I read a book where a gardener basically said, if you can't create a nice garden in June, you might as well give it up (my paraphrasing).  With plenty of rain and lots of sun, the flowers make a great show.  Okay, it's not Monet's, Tasha's, or the Innisfree Garden, but now-and-then, in the early morning, I see a passer-by stop to take pictures.  And my next-door neighbor makes the garden tour every day at 6 a.m. while he waits for the newspaper delivery.

There aren't many ideas that I can take from all the places I visited this June to use on my small urban property, but they have inspired me to keep weeding, and to respect the evolution of a garden when some plants don't make it through the winter, while other surprises seem to appear out of nowhere.

Now, does anyone know where I can get some nicely aged goat manure this fall?



(my fence buried under Cape Cod roses, looking towards my house)